What details does a metal roof need?
High-temperature underlayment over a solid deck, ice-and-water at eaves and valleys, site-bent trim at every edge, a profiled ridge cap with closures, purpose-made pipe boots rated for heat, and concealed clips rather than exposed screws. Our published metal rate is $1,563 to $2,575 per square, all in.
The assembly, from the deck up
| Layer or detail | What it must be | What goes wrong |
|---|---|---|
| Deck | Solid, flat sheathing. Any dip telegraphs straight through a metal panel and is visible from the street. | Panels laid over an uneven or overlaid surface show every irregularity in raking light. |
| High-temperature underlayment | Rated for the temperature under a metal panel, which runs far hotter than under a shingle. | Standard synthetic or felt softens, and on a south elevation it can fail within a few summers. |
| Ice-and-water membrane | High-temperature grade at eaves and in every valley. | Standard membrane under metal releases its adhesive in heat. |
| Panel and clips | 24-gauge standing seam on concealed clips that let the panel move as it expands. | A panel fixed rigidly buckles, oil-cans and tears at the fastener as it grows and shrinks with temperature. |
| Ridge cap and closure | Profiled foam or metal closures that seal the flutes under the cap while still allowing ventilation. | Missing closures leave the ridge open to wind-driven rain and to wasps. |
| Trim: eave, rake, valley, wall | Site-bent to match the profile, lapped so water sheds outward at every joint. | Off-the-shelf trim forced to fit, with the gaps sealed. Sealant is not a flashing. |
| Pipe boots | Purpose-made high-temperature boots that fit the panel profile. | Standard rubber boots harden and split, and they are the most common leak on any metal roof. |
| Fasteners | Concealed clips on standing seam; gasketted screws torqued correctly on exposed-fastener panels. | On screw-down roofs the neoprene washers are the service item and they need re-torquing periodically. |
Chimneys, walls and everything that pokes through
A metal roof has the same problem as any other roof and less tolerance for getting it wrong: every penetration has to shed water outward, and the panel profile means the metal cannot simply be dressed around things the way a shingle can. Chimneys need a proper apron, step and counter flashing set into the masonry, with a cricket behind anything wide, exactly as on a shingle roof. Wall intersections need the panel turned up behind a counter flashing rather than sealed to the wall.
Two rules a homeowner can check without going up there. First, nothing in a correct metal roof depends on sealant as its waterproofing — sealant is a secondary measure inside a lap, not the lap itself. Second, penetrations belong above the water line, not in the middle of a run where a wide panel collects the flow of everything above it. A soil pipe or an exhaust cap that had to be placed low should have a diverter above it.
A standing-seam roof will outlive the person who installed it. The boots, the closures and the sealant inside the laps will not, and that is what maintenance on a metal roof means.
Ventilation and the gutter tie-in
Metal roofs need the same ventilation as any other roof, and the products differ: a purpose-made metal ridge vent with profile closures at the exhaust, and intake at the soffits as usual. Our published rate for cutting in continuous ridge ventilation is $15 per foot, and on a metal roof the closure detail is what stops the ridge vent becoming an entry point.
At the eave, metal sheds fast, which means the gutter has to be sized and positioned to catch water arriving with more energy than it does off a shingle roof. This is where a 6-inch gutter at $17.50 per linear foot earns its money against the 5-inch builder standard, and where snow retention on a metal roof becomes a real question — a whole roof of snow releasing at once takes a gutter with it and is a hazard below.
Metal roof detail questions
What underlayment goes under a metal roof?
A high-temperature synthetic underlayment, because the underside of a metal panel runs considerably hotter than the underside of an asphalt shingle and standard felt or ordinary synthetic can soften and fail. Ice-and-water membrane still goes at the eaves and in the valleys and should also be a high-temperature grade, since standard membrane can release its adhesive under a hot panel. This is one of the places where a metal roof quote that looks cheap usually is cheap.
How long do metal roof screws last?
On an exposed-fastener panel, the neoprene washer under the screw head is the service item and it typically needs attention somewhere between fifteen and twenty-five years, sooner on a south-facing elevation. Washers harden, the screw backs out slightly with thermal movement, and each one becomes a small hole. A standing-seam roof avoids the question entirely because the fasteners are concealed clips under the seam, which is a large part of why standing seam costs more and lasts longer.
Do metal roofs need a ridge vent?
Yes, the ventilation requirement is the same as for any other roof, and it is met with a purpose-made metal ridge vent and profile closures that seal the flutes of the panel while allowing air out. The closure is the part that matters: without it the ridge is open to wind-driven rain and to insects, and with the wrong closure the vent is blocked and the attic is unventilated behind a vent that looks correct from the ground.
Can you put a pipe boot on a metal roof?
Yes, and it must be a purpose-made high-temperature boot designed to conform to the panel profile, fixed and sealed at its base into the pan of the panel rather than across a rib. A standard shingle boot on a metal roof hardens faster because of the heat and does not seal to a ribbed surface. Pipe boots are the single most common leak point on metal roofs and they are a maintenance item rather than a lifetime one.
Why does a metal roof look wavy?
That is oil-canning, and it is a visible waviness in the flat part of the panel. It is largely cosmetic and it is caused by some combination of an uneven deck, stress in the steel coil, and thermal expansion in a panel that is fixed too rigidly to move. It is reduced by a flat deck, striated or pencil-ribbed panel profiles, lighter colours and matt finishes, and by clips that let the panel float. Most manufacturers exclude oil-canning from warranty because it does not affect performance.
Do metal roofs need snow guards?
On many Maryland roofs, yes, and it is often forgotten. A metal roof sheds accumulated snow in a single slide rather than melting it away gradually, and a full roof of snow releasing at once will take a gutter with it and is genuinely dangerous over a door, a walkway or a driveway. Snow retention devices are designed against the roof area, the pitch and the expected load, and they are fitted with the roof rather than added later.
Where to go next
The details above are what a metal quote should name. These cover the decision and the price.
Standing-seam metal roofing
24-gauge concealed-fastener metal, site-bent trim, and the roofs it is and is not right for.
See the service →OverlayMetal over shingles: can you, should you
Whether metal can go over an existing roof, what it costs, and when tear-off is the better call.
Read the guide →FlashingRoof flashing and penetrations
Where leaks actually come from. Every flashing part named, and what fails in each.
Read the standard →VentilationAttic ventilation: intake, exhaust and balance
How much net free area an attic needs, and the damage done by too much exhaust or a blocked soffit.
Read the standard →