How to choose a roofing contractor in Maryland (and avoid storm chasers)

A roof is one of the biggest purchases a homeowner makes, and the roofing industry attracts its share of bad actors — especially after storms. Here's exactly how to separate a real, accountable contractor from a fly-by-night crew.

The 7-point checklist

• Verify the license. In Maryland, every home-improvement contractor needs an MHIC number — look it up on the state site. (Ours: MHIC #111971; VA #2705183185; PA #192325.)
• Confirm insurance. Liability and workers' comp protect you if something goes wrong on your property. Ask for a certificate.
• Demand a local, permanent address. Storm chasers use PO boxes and disappear. A real local company answers for its work years later.
• Check manufacturer certification. GAF factory-certified contractors can register enhanced warranties most roofers can't offer.
• Read the reviews — and the responses. Look for volume, recency, and how they handle the rare unhappy customer.
• Get the full scope in writing. Underlayment, ice-and-water shield, drip edge, ventilation, flashing — the items cheap bids quietly omit.
• Scrutinize the payment schedule. Reasonable: first insurance check at start, balance at completion. Red flag: large cash deposit up front.

How to verify an MHIC license (in about two minutes)

Maryland requires every home-improvement contractor — roofers included — to hold a Maryland Home Improvement Commission (MHIC) license. The number is public, and checking it is the single fastest way to weed out a fly-by-night crew.

• Get the number. Ask for the MHIC number, or find it on the estimate, the truck, or the website. A legitimate Maryland roofer prints it everywhere — ours is MHIC #111971.
• Search the state database. Go to the Maryland Department of Labor's license lookup (search “Maryland MHIC license lookup”) and enter the number or company name. You can search by license number, business name, or individual.
• Confirm it's active — and that it matches. Check that the license is current (not expired or suspended), that the name on the license matches the company on your contract, and that there are no unresolved complaints or disciplinary actions.
• Check the salesperson, too. In Maryland, the person selling you the job should also be a licensed MHIC salesperson tied to that contractor. Storm-chasers often can't produce one.

UD Roofing carries the same standard across state lines — MHIC #111971 in Maryland, VA Class A #2705183185 in Virginia, and PA #192325 in Pennsylvania. You can see our credentials and track record on our about page.

Insurance and bonding: what to actually confirm

A license proves a contractor is registered; insurance protects your property and your bank account if the job goes sideways. Before you sign, ask for a current certificate of insurance — and don't settle for a verbal “yes, we're covered.”

• General liability covers damage to your home — a dropped bundle through a skylight, a ladder through a window. Look for at least $1M in coverage.
• Workers' compensation matters most. If an uninsured roofer is hurt on your roof, you can be the one on the hook. Comp coverage moves that risk off your homeowners policy.
• Bonding. UD Roofing is licensed and bonded across MD, VA, and PA. Maryland licensing also funds the MHIC Guaranty Fund (more on that below) — an extra layer of homeowner protection cheaper crews can't offer.

Ask that the certificate be sent directly from the insurer or agent. It's the surest way to know the coverage is real and in force.

Manufacturer certifications (and why they beat a generic warranty)

Almost any roofer can buy and install brand-name shingles. Far fewer are factory-certified by the manufacturer — and that distinction changes the warranty you can actually get. GAF, North America's largest shingle maker, certifies only a small share of contractors as GAF Certified or, at the top tier, GAF Master Elite (roughly the top few percent of roofers, who must prove licensing, insurance, and a clean reputation). CertainTeed (SELECT ShingleMaster) and Owens Corning (Platinum Preferred) run similar programs.

Why it matters: only certified contractors can register the manufacturer's strongest system warranties — the ones that cover the entire roof system, workmanship included, for decades. Hire an uncertified roofer and you're limited to the basic material warranty, no matter how good the shingle.

Reviews, references, and reputation

Ratings show you how a contractor behaves when no one is forcing them to. Read past the star average:

• Volume and recency — dozens of reviews over several years beats five from last month.
• How they answer criticism — a calm, solution-focused reply to a rare bad review says more than a wall of perfect ones.
• Local, verifiable references — ask for recent addresses in your area you can drive past, and call a reference or two.

You can read verified customer feedback on our reviews page.

Written estimates and a complete scope of work

Cheap bids win by leaving things out. A trustworthy estimate spells out the whole roof system in writing, so you're comparing apples to apples — and so nothing “extra” appears mid-job:

• Tear-off of the old roof (vs. a risky, code-limited layover)
• Underlayment and ice-and-water shield at eaves and valleys
• Drip edge, starter strip, and proper attic ventilation
• Flashing at walls, chimneys, and pipe boots
• Shingle brand, line, and color; cleanup with a magnetic nail sweep; and the permit

If a bid is vague, or a few hundred dollars below everyone else, the gap is usually the items above — the ones that keep a roof watertight. Want a documented, itemized number for your home? Start with an instant roof quote.

Workmanship vs. material warranties — know the difference

“Lifetime warranty” is one of the most misunderstood phrases in roofing. There are two separate warranties, and a complete roof needs both:

A material warranty is worthless if the roof was installed wrong, and a one-year workmanship warranty is worthless once the crew has left the state. Ask exactly what's covered, for how long, and whether it transfers when you sell the home.

Contracts and deposits: what Maryland law allows

Maryland's Home Improvement Law gives homeowners real, specific protections — use them:

• Deposit cap. A Maryland home-improvement contractor may not require a deposit of more than one-third (1/3) of the total contract price. Anyone demanding more — or a large cash payment before materials arrive — is a red flag.
• Everything in writing. The contract must include the contractor's name, address, and MHIC number, the total price, and a clear description of the work and materials. Verbal deals aren't protected.
• Right to cancel. For a contract signed at your home — a door-knock after a storm — Maryland gives you three business days to cancel in writing.
• The MHIC Guaranty Fund. Because they're licensed, homeowners who suffer an actual loss from an MHIC contractor may claim reimbursement from the state Guaranty Fund (up to $30,000 per claim). That safety net exists only when you hire a licensed contractor — one more reason the license check matters.

On insurance work, the honest payment schedule is simple: the first insurance check gets the job started, and the balance is due at completion (with an RCV policy, that final invoice releases your recoverable depreciation). No one should ask you to fund the whole job — or hand over your deductible — up front.

Red flags to walk away from

• High-pressure "sign today or the price goes up" tactics
• Asking you to pay your deductible "out of their pocket" (insurance fraud)
• No written contract or vague scope
• No verifiable license or local address
• Demanding a large deposit before any work

Frequently asked questions

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