Question 1

How much does a new roof cost in Maryland?

Accepted Answer

Most single-family asphalt shingle roof replacements in Maryland run $600 to $900 per roofing square installed — roughly $14,000 to $26,000 on a typical home, depending on square footage, roof pitch, and the condition of the decking underneath. Steeper roofs, multiple stories, and premium materials push toward the higher end, while smaller ranch-style homes often land near the bottom. A standing-seam metal roof typically costs two to three times as much as asphalt for the same house.

Question 2

What factors affect roof replacement cost the most?

Accepted Answer

Roof size — measured in “squares,” where one square equals 100 square feet — is the single biggest cost driver, followed by pitch, the number of old layers to tear off, and any hidden decking rot. Complex rooflines with valleys, dormers, and skylights add labor, and premium shingles or metal raise material costs. In the DMV, disposal fees and county permit costs in places like Montgomery and Fairfax also factor in.

Question 3

Is a roofing estimate free, and should I get more than one?

Accepted Answer

Reputable DMV roofers, including United Developers, provide free written estimates, and you should get at least two or three before deciding. Compare them line by line rather than just the bottom number, because a cheap bid often skips underlayment, flashing, or proper ventilation. A detailed, itemized estimate is a sign the contractor actually measured the roof instead of guessing.

Question 4

Can I finance a new roof in the DMV?

Accepted Answer

Yes — most established DMV roofing companies offer financing, and United Developers offers $0-down plans with terms from 12 to 180 months on approved credit. Pre-qualification uses a soft credit pull, so checking your rate does not affect your credit score. Even an insurance deductible can often be financed so a storm repair does not drain your savings.

Question 5

What is included in a roof replacement price?

Accepted Answer

A complete price covers full tear-off and disposal of the old roof, synthetic underlayment, ice-and-water barrier at the eaves and valleys, drip edge, starter strip, hip and ridge cap, new pipe boots, new step and counter flashing, balanced attic ventilation, cleanup with a magnetic nail sweep, and the permit where your county requires one. The shingle itself is the part you choose and the smallest part of that list. A quote that names the shingle and then gives one lump sum has not told you which of the other items are actually in the price.

Question 6

Why is a new roof so expensive?

Accepted Answer

A replacement is a demolition, disposal and construction project compressed into a single day, and about eight per cent of the gap between the Washington suburbs and the rest of Maryland is simply the wage the crew is paid, which comes from the federal wage data our price book is built on. The rest is material, disposal charged by weight, code items such as ice-and-water barrier and proper ventilation that older roofs never had, and the licence, insurance and warranty standing behind the work. Our own price book sets a hard floor of $600 per roofing square for an architectural system, because below that number something on the list is not really in the price.

Question 7

Is a new roof worth it?

Accepted Answer

If the roof is at the end of its life, replacing it is almost always cheaper than waiting, because the cost of waiting is larger and far less predictable: a typical decking repair runs $1,500 to $4,000 once rot sets in, interior and structural damage runs several times that, and a failed roof noted on a buyer inspection is the classic closing-table renegotiation. A properly installed architectural shingle roof in Maryland lasts 25 to 30 years and carries a registered manufacturer material warranty. If the roof still has life left in it, the honest answer is to wait, and that is what our inspectors are instructed to put in writing.

Question 8

What is the cheapest way to replace a roof in Maryland?

Accepted Answer

The largest legitimate saving is an approved storm claim, which reduces a five-figure project to your deductible, so check whether a covered storm actually hit your street before you start shopping on price alone. After that the honest levers are a real measurement instead of a drive-by guess, and financing the right roof rather than paying cash for a lesser one, with terms from 12 to 180 months on approved credit through independent third-party lenders. Basic three-tab shingle is the cheapest asphalt option but lasts closer to 15 to 20 years against 25 to 30 for architectural, so it only saves money if you are selling the house.

Question 9

How much does it cost to repair my roof?

Accepted Answer

A roof repair is priced off what the crew finds, not off a flat rate, because the work behind a leak is rarely the work you can see from the ground. The rates that drive most repair invoices are published on our change-order rate card before we start: $120 to replace a 4x8 sheet of decking, $65 for a plumbing vent boot, $450 to re-flash a skylight, $600 to re-flash a chimney, and $16 per linear foot for rotted fascia. Nothing is added without your written approval and a photo of the condition that triggered it. When a repair starts approaching the cost of a new slope, or the shingles are simply past their service life, replacement at $600 to $900 per roofing square is the better spend and we will tell you so.

Question 10

How much does gutter replacement or new gutter installation cost?

Accepted Answer

Gutters are priced by the linear foot off a measurement of the roof edge, which is why an honest number cannot be given over the phone. Our published retail rate for the 6-inch oversized seamless aluminum system is $17.50 per linear foot installed, with 3x4 oversized downspouts at $16.00 per linear foot and micro-mesh leaf guard at $13.50 per linear foot. What moves your total is the run length, how many corners and downspouts the house needs, the height of the fascia, and whether the fascia board behind the old gutter is still sound. Ask any contractor for the rate per linear foot and the measured footage as two separate numbers, so you can check the arithmetic yourself.

Question 11

Is gutter installation labor priced separately from the material?

Accepted Answer

Not on our rate card. The $17.50 per linear foot for 6-inch seamless aluminum is an installed rate: the coil stock, the hangers, the sealant, the machine that rolls the gutter on your driveway and the labor to hang it are all inside the one number. That is deliberate, because a separate labor line lets a contractor quote a cheap material price and make it back on hours. If a bid you are comparing splits labor out, add the lines together before you compare it with an installed rate, and check which of the two carries tear-off and haul-away of the old gutter.

Question 12

How much does siding replacement cost?

Accepted Answer

Siding is priced by the square foot of wall off a measurement, and the material moves the number more than anything else does. Our published retail rate for James Hardie fiber cement in the ColorPlus finish is $16.50 per square foot installed. A real siding quote then carries trim at the windows, doors and corners, a weather-resistive barrier behind the panels, an allowance for sheathing that turns out to be rotten once the old siding is off, and the permit. Vinyl and aluminum sit below fiber cement. We do not publish a rate for those, because the number comes off the measurement and off what the crew finds behind the wall.

Question 13

Is there an alternative to replacing all the siding?

Accepted Answer

Often, yes. Where the damage is confined to one elevation or a run of panels, replacing that section is a real option, and on a storm claim it is frequently what the carrier pays for. The catch is match: siding fades, and profiles and colors go out of production, so on an older house a patch can be perfectly sound and still look like a patch. Repainting sound siding, or re-siding only the elevation the weather actually hits, are both cheaper than wrapping the whole house. We inspect for the match problem before recommending anything, and we will say plainly when a partial repair is the right call and when it is money spent twice.

Question 14

How much does skylight repair cost, and can a skylight be repaired?

Accepted Answer

Most skylights that leak are not leaking through the glass, they are leaking around it, and that is repairable. The published rate on our change-order card for re-flashing a skylight is $450, which is the fix when the pan, apron and step flashing have failed but the unit itself is sound. A cracked pane, a failed seal between the panes, or a rotted curb means the unit gets replaced rather than repaired, and we do not publish a price for that, because it depends on the size, the type of unit and whether the curb has to be rebuilt. That number comes off the measurement at the inspection.

Question 15

Does homeowners insurance cover storm or hail damage to my roof?

Accepted Answer

Yes — most homeowners policies in Maryland cover sudden storm, hail, and wind damage, though they exclude normal wear and age-related deterioration. If a covered storm damaged your roof, your insurer typically pays to repair or replace it minus your deductible. The key is documenting that the damage came from a specific weather event, which is why a dated photo inspection matters.

Question 16

On an approved storm claim, how much do I actually pay?

Accepted Answer

On most approved storm claims on an approved claim your deductible is typically your out-of-pocket cost, and the insurer covers the rest of the approved roof replacement. By law in Maryland, a contractor cannot waive, pay, or rebate your deductible, so be cautious of anyone who offers to. United Developers documents the damage and meets your adjuster on-site, but the insurance carrier makes the final approval decision.

Question 17

How do I file a roof insurance claim after a storm?

Accepted Answer

Start by documenting the damage with dated photos and noting when the storm hit, then call your insurance company to open a claim and request an adjuster inspection. Before the adjuster visits, have an independent roofer inspect the roof and prepare a photo damage report so nothing legitimate gets missed. United Developers meets your adjuster on-site to review our photo report and estimate together.

Question 18

My roof insurance claim was denied — can I still get it approved?

Accepted Answer

A denied claim can often be re-opened or re-filed, especially if the first inspection missed damage or the adjuster's report was incomplete. Request a copy of the adjuster's report, get a second professional inspection, and submit new photo documentation or ask for a re-inspection. We provide the independent inspection and dated photo documentation; the claim itself remains between you and your carrier, and we do not review policies, dispute denials, or contact your insurer for you.

Question 19

What is the difference between ACV and RCV on my policy?

Accepted Answer

Actual Cash Value (ACV) pays the depreciated, aged value of your roof, while Replacement Cost Value (RCV) pays what it costs to install a brand-new roof today. On an RCV policy, the insurer usually issues a first check for ACV minus your deductible, then releases the remaining “recoverable depreciation” after the work is completed and verified. Knowing which type of policy you have tells you exactly how the money will flow.

Question 20

How long do I have to file a storm claim in Maryland?

Accepted Answer

Most policies require you to file within a limited window after the storm — often one year, though some carriers allow up to two — so it pays to act quickly. Maryland sees significant hail and wind events each year, and waiting makes it harder to prove the damage was storm-related. If a storm recently hit your area, the clock is already running.

Question 21

Is roof damage caused by wind covered by insurance?

Accepted Answer

Wind is one of the perils a standard Maryland homeowners policy is written to cover, because it is a sudden event rather than wear, and wear is the distinction carriers care about. What gets argued is whether the shingles were lifted by that storm or were already loose, so the useful thing you can do is note the date of the storm and get the roof photographed close up rather than from the ground. Check your declarations page as well, because some policies carry a separate, higher wind deductible. We document the damage and meet your adjuster on the roof. We are a licensed Maryland contractor, not a public adjuster, so we do not negotiate or adjust the claim and we cannot tell you how yours will be decided.

Question 22

How does a roof insurance claim work from start to finish?

Accepted Answer

You report the loss and the carrier issues a claim number. An adjuster inspects the roof and writes a scope and an estimate. The carrier then approves it, partially approves it, or denies it. On an approved claim the money is released against that scope, and on a replacement cost policy the recoverable depreciation follows after the work is finished and documented. The roof is built to the approved scope, and anything found during tear-off that the scope missed goes back to the carrier as a supplement with photographs. On an approved claim your deductible is typically your out-of-pocket cost. The carrier decides coverage and the amount, not us.

Question 23

Will insurance pay for hail damage to my roof?

Accepted Answer

It depends on what the hail actually did, and the test an adjuster applies is functional damage rather than appearance. A bruised mat, fractured fiberglass and granule loss that leaves the asphalt exposed are failures of the shingle. A scuff on a gutter or a dent in a soft metal vent is cosmetic, and cosmetic damage on its own is often not paid. The age of the roof matters too, because some policies settle an older roof at actual cash value rather than replacement cost. We mark a test square on each slope, photograph what is inside it with the date on the photo, and give you the report whether you file or not.

Question 24

How long does a roof insurance claim take?

Accepted Answer

The parts you control are quick and the parts the carrier controls are not. Reporting the loss is one phone call. The adjuster inspection is booked against the carrier's queue, and after a wide storm event that queue is every roof in the county, so it stretches. After the inspection you are waiting on the carrier to issue a scope, and after that on materials and on our build schedule. The one thing that reliably shortens it is having the damage documented before the adjuster arrives, so the inspection confirms a report instead of starting from nothing. We will not put a date on a decision that is not ours to make.

Question 25

Are gutters and siding covered on the same storm claim as the roof?

Accepted Answer

They can be, and they are the things most often left out. Hail and wind hit the whole envelope, so a storm that damaged the roof has usually also dented gutters and downspouts and cracked or holed siding on the elevation that faced it, and a claim written for the roof alone leaves that on the table. Whether it is paid is your carrier's decision against your policy, not ours. What is certain is that it will not be paid if nobody photographed it. Our inspection covers the roof, the gutters, the siding and the flashings, and you get the whole report.

Question 26

What happens to a roof insurance claim while selling a house?

Accepted Answer

Settle this before you go under contract, because an open claim changes a sale in ways that surprise people. Two things drive it. The claim proceeds belong to whoever owned the house at the time of the loss, so an open claim has to be settled or explicitly assigned at closing rather than left vague between the parties. And an unrepaired roof turns up in the buyer inspection and in the lender appraisal, where an underwriter can condition the loan on the repair. Talk to your carrier and your settlement attorney early. We supply the inspection report and a written scope and price that a buyer, an agent or an underwriter can read, which is usually what the transaction needs.

Question 27

How long does a roof replacement take?

Accepted Answer

Most single-family roof replacements are completed in one to two days, weather permitting, with many DMV homes finished in a single day. Larger homes, steep pitches, or complex rooflines take longer, and unexpected decking repairs can add time. United Developers tears off, inspects the decking, and installs the new system in one continuous project to keep your home exposed for as little time as possible.

Question 28

What happens during a roof replacement, step by step?

Accepted Answer

The crew first protects your landscaping, then tears off the old roofing down to the decking, inspects and repairs the wood sheathing, and installs new underlayment, flashing, shingles, and ridge ventilation. A magnetic sweep for stray nails and a full cleanup finish the job, usually the same day. A final inspection confirms the installation meets manufacturer specifications and local code.

Question 29

Do I need to leave my house during a roof replacement?

Accepted Answer

No — you can stay home during a roof replacement, though you should expect hammering, foot traffic overhead, and some vibration through the day. Move vehicles out of the driveway and away from the house, and it is wise to take down fragile wall hangings beforehand. Families with pets or young children sometimes plan to be out during the noisiest hours.

Question 30

What are the signs I need a roof replacement instead of a repair?

Accepted Answer

The clearest signs you need a full replacement are widespread curling or missing shingles, granules collecting in your gutters, daylight or active leaks in the attic, a sagging roofline, and a roof more than 20 to 25 years old. A few damaged shingles or one isolated leak can usually be repaired, but multiple failing areas point to replacement. A professional inspection with photos will tell you which option makes financial sense.

Question 31

How long does an asphalt shingle roof last versus a metal roof?

Accepted Answer

Architectural asphalt shingles typically last 25 to 30 years in the DMV climate, while a standing-seam metal roof can last 40 to 70 years. Metal costs more upfront but offers a longer lifespan, better wind resistance, and energy savings over time. Basic three-tab shingles, the cheapest asphalt option, last closer to 15 to 20 years here.

Question 32

What are the best shingles for the DMV's weather?

Accepted Answer

Architectural (dimensional) asphalt shingles such as GAF Timberline HDZ are the most popular choice for Maryland homes because they handle humidity, wind, and freeze-thaw cycles well and carry strong wind ratings. Impact-resistant Class 4 shingles are worth considering in hail-prone areas and can earn an insurance discount. Proper attic ventilation matters as much as the shingle brand for longevity in the DMV's hot, humid summers.

Question 33

Asphalt shingles vs. metal roofing — which should I choose?

Accepted Answer

Choose architectural asphalt shingles if you want the best balance of cost, appearance, and proven performance; choose metal if you want maximum lifespan, wind resistance, and energy efficiency and plan to stay in the home long term. Asphalt runs about $14,000 to $26,000 for most DMV homes, while metal typically costs two to three times more. Both perform well in Maryland when installed with proper underlayment and ventilation.

Question 34

How does DMV weather affect my roof?

Accepted Answer

The DMV's mix of hot, humid summers, winter freeze-thaw cycles, and periodic hail and wind storms wears roofs faster than milder climates do. Humidity combined with poor attic ventilation can rot decking and cause shingles to fail early, while sudden storms cause impact and wind damage. Getting an inspection after every major storm helps catch problems before they turn into interior leaks.

Question 35

Do I need a permit to replace my roof in Maryland?

Accepted Answer

Yes — most DMV jurisdictions require a building permit for a roof replacement, though the exact rule varies by county. Full Montgomery County's Department of Permitting Services lists “Roof (covering only)” under No Permits Required, so a straight re-roof — tear-off and new covering — does not need one. What does trigger a permit is structural work: replacing damaged decking or altering the roof framing. Any contractor telling you a simple shingle replacement needs a county permit is either not from here or is padding the invoice. A licensed contractor confirms the local requirement and pulls the permit for you.

Question 36

Who is responsible for pulling the roofing permit?

Accepted Answer

Your licensed roofing contractor should pull the permit and handle the required inspection, and you should be cautious of any roofer who asks you to pull it yourself. In counties like Montgomery and Howard, permits are tied to the licensed contractor performing the work. United Developers handles permitting and code compliance as part of the job.

Question 37

Are there rules about how many roof layers are allowed?

Accepted Answer

Most Maryland jurisdictions allow a maximum of two layers of asphalt shingles, so if you already have two layers a full tear-off is required by code. Building codes also require proper underlayment, ice-and-water shield in valleys and eaves, and adequate attic ventilation. A tear-off is usually the better choice anyway because it lets the crew inspect and repair the decking underneath.

Question 38

How do I vet a roofing contractor in the DMV?

Accepted Answer

Verify the contractor's license — in Maryland that is an MHIC number (United Developers is MHIC #111971) — confirm they carry liability and workers' compensation insurance, and get a written, itemized estimate. Check independent reviews, ask for local references, and confirm manufacturer certifications such as GAF Certified. Avoid door-knockers who pressure you to sign on the spot or demand a large cash deposit.

Question 39

Is a roofing contractor's license and insurance really necessary?

Accepted Answer

Yes — hiring a licensed and insured roofer protects you from liability if a worker is injured on your property and gives you recourse if the work is defective. In Maryland, residential roofers must hold an MHIC license. Unlicensed work can also void manufacturer warranties and complicate any future insurance claim.

Question 40

What questions should I ask before hiring a roofer?

Accepted Answer

Ask for the license number, proof of insurance, a written warranty, a detailed line-item estimate, and whether they pull the permit and handle inspections. Ask how they deal with unexpected decking repairs and what manufacturer certifications they carry. A trustworthy DMV roofer answers all of these in writing without hesitation.

Roof, Siding, Gutter and Skylight Answers for Maryland Homeowners

What a new roof costs in the DMV